Paris has hosted its first Modest Fashion Week, an event that saw nearly 30 designers showcase collections including headscarves and burkinis, despite existing French laws restricting religious symbols in public life. The event, held inside Hôtel Le Marois, a mansion just off the Champs-Élysées, highlighted a perceived shift in French culture, with attendees claiming a more “inclusive French culture taking shape” and that “something had changed in France.” This development unfolds as France, home to an estimated 5-7.5 million Muslims, navigates its foundational principle of laïcité, which mandates state and public institutions remain free of religious display.
The event featured designers from various nations, including Turkey, Indonesia, Australia, and Nigeria, presenting loose, long-cut garments. Among the items showcased were burkinis, swimwear described as a mix of “burka” and “bikini,” which are banned in most public swimming pools across France but permitted on beaches. This direct presentation of legally restricted attire in a prominent Parisian setting underscores the ongoing cultural transformation.
Erosion of National Norms
French secularism, known as laïcité, has historically led to strict regulations on religious attire. The headscarf and other religious symbols were banned in state-run schools more than 20 years ago, and full-length robes known as abayas were prohibited in schools more recently. Furthermore, individuals cannot wear religious clothing while working in public-sector professions such as teaching or the civil service, reflecting a long-standing commitment to public neutrality.
However, the Modest Fashion Week presented a contrasting narrative. Fatou Doucouré, founder and creative director of French brand Soutoura, stated that despite struggling with her hijab in France previously, she now felt it was not holding her back. Doucouré expressed that exhibiting her collection in Paris made her feel that Muslim women who cover their hair or dress modestly could “take on any role in any society,” suggesting a perceived overcoming of traditional French secular boundaries.
Young attendees echoed this sentiment, with one French attendee of Malian heritage expressing joy and stating that seeing a major show of international designers in the heart of Paris made her “never want to leave.” Another attendee noted that her hijab no longer felt like the center of political discussion on the streets, implying a broader societal acceptance of religious symbols that once faced significant institutional and public scrutiny.
Globalist Market Forces
Özlem Şahin, head of the organization behind Modest Fashion Week, described Paris as “one of the leading modest fashion capitals in Europe,” signaling an organized effort to establish the city as a hub for this specific market. The global market for modest fashion has experienced rapid growth over the past decade, with consumer spending projected to exceed $400 billion by next year, according to research firm DinarStandard. This economic expansion, initially catering to Muslim women, is now extending its appeal to other religious communities and secular shoppers, indicating a significant commercial interest driving these cultural shifts.
The event also highlighted the influence of broader fashion trends, with French brands Soutoura and Nour Turbans showcasing boxy garments influenced by Gen Z streetwear, a style also championed by sportswear giants Nike and Adidas. This integration of international corporate interests and global fashion trends into the modest fashion movement further illustrates the transnational forces at play in reshaping national cultural landscapes and consumer markets.