The global spectacle of the World Cup 2026 commenced in Kansas City, drawing fans whose cultural practices are rapidly being absorbed into commercial markets. Cafe Corazon, identified as one of the biggest importers of yerba mate in the Midwest, reported its product “flying off the shelves” as supporters of reigning champions Argentina gathered. This surge in sales, noted by co-owner Dulcinea Herrera, signals a significant moment of surplus extraction from traditional cultural consumption, as fans invest their resources into the commodified experience surrounding the tournament.
Argentina prepared to open the World Cup against Algeria at Kansas City’s Arrowhead Stadium, with Lionel Messi expected to earn his 200th cap. Coach Lionel Scaloni emphasized Messi’s global appeal, stating that “not only the Argentinian population but everybody — the whole planet — wants to see him play,” and that “he has an effect not only on Argentina fans but supporters all over the world.” This widespread demand underscores the immense value concentrated in individual athletic labor within the global sports industry, driving the spectacle’s commercial viability. Messi had been dealing with a minor hamstring issue but appeared comfortable in training and played 20 minutes in the final tuneup against Iceland one week ago, scoring on a penalty kick.
Fans arriving in Kansas City brought traditional items like flags, jerseys, and songs, alongside yerba mate, a caffeinated beverage ubiquitous in some South American countries. Outside Argentina’s hotel, fans were observed pouring and sharing mate in gourd cups with metal bombillas. On Monday, one day ago, a line of fans wearing sky blue-and-white striped jerseys extended nearly out the door at Cafe Corazon, seeking the traditional beverage.
Commodification of Culture
Dulcinea Herrera of Cafe Corazon noted that “a lot of people have been coming in to try it. People who aren’t Argentinian want to just have that experience.” This demonstrates the expansion of the market for mate beyond its traditional cultural base, driven by the multicultural appeal of soccer. The beverage has spread, including in the United States, where it has become a drink of choice for star athletes. Among the World Cup’s most famous stars who consume mate are Uruguay’s Luis Suarez and Argentina’s Lionel Messi, who posted a photo of himself holding a mate cup and the World Cup trophy after his team’s victory four years ago.
Christine Folch, a cultural anthropologist at Duke University and author of “The Book of Yerba Mate,” explained that the drink dates back to Indigenous people and the gauchos, South American cowboys. Traditionally, mate is made for social settings, with people sharing the same cup or bringing enough to share. Folch stated, “When somebody offers you mate and you accept, what you have done is you have stepped into a relationship. So it’s a way of bonding with people.” This communal origin stands in stark contrast to the individualized consumption promoted by commercial markets.
From Commons to Commodity
The transformation of mate from a communal practice to a commercial product is evident in its distribution. Folch noted that mate became popular in Syria and Lebanon more than 100 years ago, leading to Middle Eastern grocery stores being a main place to find the traditional dried leaves in the United States. However, in the United States, it is also sold in refrigerated cans, explicitly marketed to an American audience as a “natural energy drink” and often mixed with fruit flavors. Some Cuban Americans consume a sweetened and carbonated version, while in Berlin, Club Mate is a popular carbonated drink often mixed with alcohol.
This commercialization fundamentally alters the beverage’s character. Rene Cufre, an Argentina-born fan who traveled from Albuquerque to Kansas City with his son Sebastian, dismissed the canned American version, stating, “Honestly, I don’t even consider that to be mate. That’s like a completely different class of beverage.” This highlights the alienation from the traditional form that occurs when cultural practices are packaged for mass consumption and profit. Despite the commercial pressures, fans like Rene and Sebastian Cufre, who met other Argentina fans at Cafe Corazon, continued the communal practice, sharing a cup of mate around their tables. Fernando Villagran, who traveled from California, reiterated this, saying, “It’s not only a drink, but a social thing. It is about friendship.” These acts of collective sharing persist even as capital seeks to privatize and profit from every aspect of cultural life. The traditional preparation involves smoking the leaves, giving it a smoky overtone alongside its strong grassy, earthy flavor, which people say makes them feel less jittery than coffee.